Hey,
I am pretty new to SMD components. I was wondering how to solder pins under the p1 module. Is there a way to check if the contacts have been made.
Thanks
You need to reflow solder the P1. If you’re desperate (eek!) you can do this in a toaster oven (been there done that but dont recommend it). I know of no practical method to check the contacts other then running a test program in a burn-in environment. And even then if you have soldered the device with an unknown process it is hard to guarantee the device continuous to work for an extended period of time.
Best is to buddy up to your local CM and have him/her do a prototype run.
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@seulater had a clever soldering method in this thread: Designing new E Series Board - Can I hand solder the 1st few prototypes?
These inexpensive reflow ovens (around US$220) are fine for hobby use and way easier than trying to use an oven, skillet, or other crazy DIY techniques. I have one and it works fine for soldering P1s.
Or you can use Seeed Studio Fusion PCBA. They carry the P1 in stock in their open part library
so you can order in small quantities and they take care of the board, stencil, and assembly. Even with a reflow oven and stencil, assembling P1 boards by hand is a pain, so having someone else do it is worth looking into.
Finally, you can use the Photon without headers. It has castellated edges that can be reflow soldered, but also you can just solder them by hand with a soldering iron. And then you don’t have to worry about the LED, buttons, and USB connector since they’re already on the Photon.
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@rickkas7 offers great advise. I would like to throw into the pot of ideas that you can use a Infrared Rework Machine as well. Having owned that same oven he suggested i found that it pales in comparison to what you can do with the IR device. That particular oven gets hot spots in it. If placing multiple boards in there some will be soldered, some will not, and others will get cooked brown. After receiving the IR station its my go to device for all parts with hidden pins. I have soldered over 30 P1’s on prototype boards with ease.
A tip for the IR device. After you put parts on PCB and place it on the heated bed. Let it sit there for about 3-4 minutes before you turn on the IR lamp. It will take some finesse to find your favorite bed temp & IR lamp temp but once you do its a walk in the park to solder things with it.
Ah the T962, I’ve got one as well. It does need some mods to make it work though. Certainly without the new firmware its a gamble every time you stick something in it. Additionally, the airflow through this oven is not at all even and requires tinkering with the fan/mechanics to improve.
I use it for protos that do not need to live long or are just used in the lab. Anything that goes to the field and is subjected to environmental changes (temp, humidity etc.) and/or should work for more than a year I take it to a professional.