2 Channels 4-20mA (will power the sensor)
2 Channels 0-20V
3 Digital Outputs (open collector)
4 Digital Inputs 24V
24VDC supply on board for external sensors.
3V0 regulator to power from VUSB if wanted.
8x LEDs individually controlled.
Ability to connect Analogs and Digital directly to Feather processor rather than through I2C by fitting 0R.
The PCB is powered from the 3v3 from the feather, or VUSB.
VUSB is preferred so you don’t load PSU on the Boron/Argon/Xenon etc. The two power supply inputs are diode OR’d so it will select the PSU input with the highest voltage.
Maximum input is 12V from the datasheets.
PCB 3V0 is supplied via MIC5219 (Max input of 12V)
PCB 24V is supplied via LM27313 (Max input of 14V)
We have a base board that will accept a 24VDC/solar input and will provide the VUSB with a battery backed 8V4 for powering the Feather modules.
@marshall, looks pretty awesome! Would there be a way to power down the 24V power to the sensor for low power mode? I have used this power supply in the past which has an enable, but I did not know what the low power characteristics of your design looked like.
Also, what about throwing a ADS1115 precision ADC and a TMP36 temp. sensor giving you the total package.
Lastly, what is the minimum input for your solar input? Most of the solar projects I have seen use a 6V panel.
@marshall (Sorry if about the repeat.) I would be interested in purchasing a couple of these 4-20mA Featherwings. I was unable to find a link or reference. Could you direct me to a site? Thanks.
/s/ Martin
Hi.
How can I order the Featherwing boards? We are looking at using it with our own cellular (NBIoT, LTE-M) IoT board, compatible with the Fatherwing connector.
I’ve only just set the shop up since @meshferg enquired, so it’s not ready for ordering online, but it has the link to our sales email. (prices are placeholders at the moment)
You can electrically “stack” them. You would have to change the addressing of the I2C devices.
Physically stacking may prove to be more difficult as it has a connector on the top, I suppose you could remove it and solder it to a cable loom, if you wanted to lower the profile.