It needs force because at the end it has a click it needs in order to seal the water from coming out upon pumpingā¦
The coulterweight donāt seem feasibleā¦ At least in my imaginationā¦
Right now I am on either the geared motor or the worm driveā¦
Have you thought about changing the design? Like have the top slide in/out like a CD tray and seal a different way, or just the way the lid seals without snapping?
I am taking a look at that but it will involve a major dissamblyā¦
Thanks
I think the force is pushing the capsule onto the spikes that puncture the aluminum, three on on the back and a mesh arrangement at the front. I wonder if a solenoid would be best? they generally have a very fast action, you could use PWM to reduce the holding power once its moved fully.
Something like this one
http://www.jaycar.com.au/Electromechanical-Components/Mechatronics/Solenoids/Standard-12V-Solenoid/p/SS0902
Thank you all. I am worklng in a direct drive straight coupled to the machine first. I am using two high torque servos. If that works it would be the simplest solutionā¦ If it does not, il try the solenoid and the worm drive ideas.
Il keep everyone posted!
Thanks for the help!
How do you envision we can get more travel than what it is depicted in the specs?
I think it will need something like 30 to 40 mm
it depends where you attach it, if you can move it closer to the pivot point it doesnāt need to move as far. maybe one on each side? and a spring to pull it back up? or remove the mechanism and mount it internally, all the bar does is pulls the front in by 5-10mm to puncture the capsuleā¦
and is the pivot point a single bar? can you drive it from just one side? or are there 2 separate drive mechanisms?
Check out how people make DIY cnc routers, etc. Attach a motor to a threaded rod, then attach a nut to the handle. As the motor turns one way, the nut will push open the handle, as the motor turns the other, it will pull it closed. The motor will need to pivot some, which just means more 3d printing 
. You donāt really need a āservoā thatās overkill, you need 2 limit switches, because all you need to know is when your handle is all the way open and all the way closed.
Check out this page if you still want to think about a servo - thereās not much to a servo but a dc motor, an h-bridge motor driver, a potentiometer, and some gears. The only thing thatās all that smart is a servo is taking the PWM signal and converting that into angular degrees. With the Photon, you can just read the pot value directly and turn off power to the motor when you are near that value. Servos use PID algorithms to slow the speed of rotation as they near their setpoint, but that also seems like overkill.
@jrubins and everyone!! Great recommendation!! Iām finishing a print tonightā¦ If everything goes according to planā¦ I am testing the solution of the servo tonightā¦ I know itās an overkillā¦ But itās what I have on handā¼ļø
@msolters I appreciate the formula and the methodā¦ This is now safe in my formula notebook for future useā¼ļø Question: will this result be the torque required at the radius of the handle or at the center of the axle or pivot point, where the handle applies forceā¦ Eg: will the torque contemplates the lever or notā¦ Thanks!!
@frlobo Torque is a cross product between an applied force, and some radius vector. As such, the same torque can be accomplished with different combinations of force and radius.
In the example I gave, we are seeking to determine the critical torque required to complete the pod-pressing action by using the handle, in which case we are computing our estimate by considering the radius of the handle from the axis it rotates when you push it.
If you rotate the axle directly with some form of electromagnetically propelled device, like a motor, then your acting radius is much smaller, and your effective force will be linearly greater in order to produce that same torque.
In practice, it doesnāt matter, as long as the motor can supply the right torque, and you do not construct too elaborate of an intermediate simple machine that dissipates all that work.
I am not recommending a counter-weight as a mechanism to power this motion, I am recommending it as a trivially simple way to measure how strong of a motor you would need to buy to do the same, directly at the axle. Whatever torque gravity tugging on a string applied at the radius of the handle generates, thatās the same torque youād need at the axle, and the same torque youād need using a lever twice as big!
I thought of your issue this morning - the best model for what you are trying to do is a garage door opener. Take a look at the screw drive type, thatās pretty much what you are trying to do in a smaller scale. Best of luck!
Ok. So this is my next attempt before moving to something more radical like things suggested hereā¦
The whitish model is the coffee machineā¦ The rest is the rig I am working onā¦ Will be printed tonight!
Il let you know how it goes!
awesome! excited to see how it goes.
Okā¦ So the design works! Thank God I didnāt have to go to the other complex designs to achieve more torqueā¦ As you know this big servos where needed to go beyond the clicking at the end of the travel of the mechanismā¦ And I needed in both sides to get both sides to click, since if one doesnāt the water can leak from one side or both.
I still need to trim the servos position to eliminate the buzzingā¦ (Both servos and then each in respect to the other side) I am also thinking on detaching the servos via software (Servo.Detach) once the servos move to the desired position to eliminate the constant applied force and thus the buzzingā¦ Since the servos are not very precise they tend to buzz no matter how I calibrate them or trim the positionā¦ This can happen immediately or at random closings and openingsā¦
I also need to fix the bottom part of the base (or servo support platform) into the machine itself with screws to eliminate the wobbling/flexing of the plastic base. This will make calibration of the servo positions a nightmare!
The design might be an overkillā¦ But it worksā¦ I will continue tomorrow with the dispenser mechanism and post videos as I move forward.
Thanks everyone for your help! I learned a lot!
Hereās the video:
http://www.vimeo.com/kikolobo/brewnoservotest
Definitely detach the servo control, just to get a feel for it. The pulse width range is 1-2ms, and it only takes a couple to send it the position. So 5-10ms is enough to tell it where to go, and it will hold there. Usually, you can even cut the signal while itās still positioning. A constant signal can cause it to read slightly different timings due to noise or other things the Particle is doing that might delay a timer interrupt if itās a soft PWM, so itāll buzz because it thinks itās getting slightly different position commands.
Thanks for the advice! Will do!
I will work on this tomorrow and post more videos.
Great project, looks impressive. Iāve got one of those Nespresso units at home and want to hook it up to the internet. You came up first in the google search (also the only real hack that I could find, none of this optocoupler nonsense). Iām first looking to make it connected, after that I might consider doing the mechanical part as well. You built an entire print to control the unit. If you only want to do the connecting part, isnāt it easier to just hack into the existing electronics and use the original microprocessor so you donāt have to deal with the loads of the boiler, temperature PID, etc.? Reverse engineer the commands using a scope and then take over communications.
True love your project!
Thank you!
In reality the print and mechanics is what it is more difficultā¦ the electronics are working great and the PID works very good too. It does not need to be very exact either.
In my experience the electronics have no issues at all. The mechanics are what needs a better design for repetitivity. I need to make a better job but I am a better electronic designer than mechanical maker 
If someone cares for the task I can work with him 
As far as all the electronics and designs I can post them to whoever wants them.
I am also thinking on using the newer Nespresso machine that has the opening an closing mechanism embedded in the machine and just use an HBridge to control it.
I believe that the real freedom comes when you get full control of the electronic side.
Also in my latest design the PCB sits inside the Nespresso machine. But I havenāt made the board yet 
Hi @frlobo - Iāve started working on a similar project going on my end and Iām facing the same challenges you were facing in the mechanical side. I was wondering if any of your learning/findings have been captured on a github repo or blog as the links on this thread all seem to have expired?
Thanks! 