Seems like a waste of time and equipment considering it’s a fact that the closer you operate the solar cells to their Vmp (Maximum Power Point Voltage) the more current they will provide under all weather conditions. This is the whole point of MPPT Solar Charge Controllers which can increase daily solar harvest by up to 30% over the course of the day.
Maybe it’s just me and the fact that I’ve proven this to myself so many times now that I just take it for fact.
Are you talking about doing an I/V curve test on a solar panel to see where it produces the most current? I have one of these testers if so.
Already confirmed (5080) works just fine.
Technically the Vmp voltage is 70% of your solar cells No Load Voltage or (Voc).
So if your solar panel is producing 6.6v in good sun it should provide the most current at 6.6v x 70% = 4.62v. The colder it is outside the higher that Vmp voltage will be due to the solar cell having a higher output voltage the cooler it is.
In the summer a solar cell because it’s dark in color will heat up to around 160F. This causes the power output and voltage to drop. The colder it is the higher the solar cells voltage will be and the closer the power output will be compared to it’s rated wattage.
I would just leave it as it currently operates mainly because you will get more lifespan out of your battery based on lab testing of keeping the battery at the top of the charging voltage profile.
Let it charge to 4.0-4.2v and then go into a float for a little and then it will go back into bulk charge mode.
I don’t see you gaining much by draining the battery by an external load just to go back into bulk or absorption mode for longer.
Of course, you can do whatever you desire, it doesn’t really matter much if your willing to replace batteries sooner rather than later.
This has turned into a long thread on solar