@chipmc I am happy to help as this community and folks like you have helped me tremendously as well along my learning journey. If you ever want more details regarding my backend setup or examples as you work through anything similar feel free to reach out anytime. I hope to eventually document the entire application and maybe share it via GitHub but for now I’m still busy developing/refining.
I’ll have to do some learning regarding Ubidots as it seems straightforward and provides really nice visualization. Might be a good solution for some simple projects I have in mind as well. I hacked together some Python Flask web app for now and use HighCharts for visualization. I plan on overhauling my “front end” visualization later this summer that might be time to learn more about Ubidots and other options.
ASA holds up really well to UV and environmental conditions. It's a derivative of ABS. It is pretty finicky to print with though. A heated bed is required and an enclosed printer also helps.
I am still fairly new to 3D printing so I share this in part to see if others have had the same experience. I have found ASA to be harder to print with particularly due to its warping as it cools. However, I also understand that the vapors given off by ASA are more toxic than PETG and can damage plastic parts on the printer if you are using an enclosure.
I have been able to reduce warping to an acceptable degree by:
Recommended nozzle temperature: 260 °C
Recommended bed temperature: First layer – 105 °C, all other layers – 110 °C.
Slowing the first few layers print speed by 25%
Adding a "Brim" to help attach the part to the hotbed
I am looking forward to learning more about 3D printing and making cool enclosures like @phillycheeseman has been doing.
I have not yet printed with ASA or Polycarbonate - I have a roll of each direct from Prusa. Prusament PC blend is supposed to be the bomb - we’ll see.
Our house is under construction and we are renting a house nearby - I didn’t want to start printing with these in this house and it is too cold out to do it in my garage.
I did built an enclosure following the Lack table instructions:
I bought three Ikea tables for like $15 each in Canada. Printed the parts as per the files – also search for Lack table mods - people have made some cool adaptations of the core design. I even had to custom 3D design a corner bracket that I wasn’t happy with in the original.
Observations:
Do not use an enclosure for PLA. I learned the hard way that an enclosure makes it too hot for PLA and you get ‘heat creep’ and nozzle clogging.
I bought a couple of 50mm fans and I plan to circulate the air automatically; I have an Argon monitoring the Prusa Enclosure.
There are lots of square to round fan adapters and filter parts on Prusa and Thingiverse
The enclosure is very good at keeping the temp even inside and warmer than without. This is good at the high temps of ASA
I have noticed more consistent temperature readings from the nozzle since I added a Silicon nozzle sleeve ($10?). It just keeps the nozzle well heated and no runs or buildup.
Add a high ‘skirt’ and brim to reduce air movement around the base. Apparently this helps.
Design matters. Different designs will be prone to warping I suspect.
I don’t print a huge number of parts, but I haven’t noticed any significant fumes while printing ASA. But my printer is in my shop and when running a long print I tend to watch it through a webcam instead of sitting near it.
ASA is difficult to print, and I’ve had a lot of warping issues. I print at 260C with a bed temperature of 110C. Since I’ve started adding a brim with 0mm clearance I have greatly reduced the warping issues.
I asked a friend who prints with ABS swears by hair spray to stick it to the bed. I use as similar product made for 3D printers but hair spray works too!
