Given the diagram below (pool valve actuator) is there a way to tell if/when the actuator has completed rotating the valve? Either by tapping into the internals or an external way. The microswitches on the upper left and right hand side are supposed to stop the motor when the cam reaches them, I am hoping that will be the key. Assume that the toggle switch has been replaced by relays. Each actuator is 24vac @ .75 amps. Thanks
What are the 3 colored wires connected to? is it a transformer with a centre tap?
an easy way would be to monitor the spare contact in the limit switches, just put them to an input on the photon (not directly), depending on the mechanical configuration then you will be able to determine each end stop and moving(not at either end)
i would say the NO contact will close when it reaches that limit switch because the NC will open to stop the motor.
so 3 options
Left closed = Postion A
Right closed = Position B
Both open = Moving
so if black was centre tap, then that could be connected to ground, then a voltage divider and a diode and cap should reduce the voltage, rectify it and smooth it out enough to read…
The black will be connected to a 24vac class 2 transformer for common and the left/right (red/white) will be connected to relays. A “bus bar” will be carrying 24vac to all relays for valves (4 total for now, 5 when I finish my solar heating rig). I will close relays to move a valve left or right and use the limiter switch to confirm it rotated and open the control relay. If there is a smaller footprint option for the relays, I’m all ears!
I’ve really been thinking about going to an OpenEverything mode and get a Pool Automation solution out there that doesn’t suck, isn’t $2k or more and increases the health of the whole system. Chemicals are only 1/3 of water hygiene and I have great ideas for the other 2/3 just need some help to get something out there. Don’t really think I’d leave my job to go it on my own so why not take a swipe at the industry with some Open hardware software that exceeds them in every way!
Here is s an idea I would explore:
Use the NO terminals on the microswitches, as suggested above, but use them to drive the LED side of a pair of opto-isolators. Combined with the relay, you then have complete isolation between your control side and the activator side. Added advantage, things can float for each opto input, it’s easy to recitfy the 24V AC, and condition it to drive the opto.
That’s awesome! Thanks @AndyW this is why I’m about to open everything up and hopefully get some traction on this.